Water Source Heat Pump (Climatemasters) problem.
I have a condo-Apartment in a High-rise building built in 2003. My condo is equipped with 2 water source AC unit (ClimateMasters with CMX/DMx control) 1 upstairs and one down stairs. Here is the Problem: The compressor at the downstairs unit shuts down after a few seconds after start up. The fan keeps running. You can hear the compressor starting up then shutting off. The filter is brand new. Is there a quick fix without calling the tech. Thanks for the help. Remove the panel and inpect the LED for the trouble code and post it here. Be Careful 240 volts is present in this panel. You may have to use a screwdriver to jumper the 2 test terminals on the circuit board before a trouble code is displayed. This pic might help... Houston204, Thanks for the instructions. I did the test and here is what I got: Flash code 2 = 2 quick flashes, 10 sec. Pause. then the compressor kicked in for 10 seconds or so then the compressor switched off and the LED started fast flashing (locked). Then I turned the power off and did a regular restart. (no test mode this time) The LED light stayed on Then again the compressor kicked in for 10 seconds or so Then the compressor switched off The LED light started flashing slow. I hope this helps... Thanks again.. Your high pressure switch lockout is probably due to low water flow. Is the pump or valve that supplies water to your heatpump getting power? Post the model number of your unit. This is what the GS , GR, GC manual states for 2 flashes... High pressure switch: When the high pressure switch opens due to high refrigerant pressures, the compressor relay is de-energized immediately since the high pressure switch is in series with the compressor contactor coil. The high pressure fault recognition is immediate (does not delay for 30 continuous seconds before de-energizing the compressor).High pressure lockout code = 2Example: 2 quick flashes, 10 sec pause, 2 quick flashes, 10 sec. pause, etc. Hello again Houston204, The model # is 30XG0N0B1. Here is what I think is going on: I came up with HP Fault-Code 2 There are 4 possible causes (According to Functional Troubleshooting Table). 1-Reduced or no water flow (very likely) 2-Water Temperature out of range in cooling (very unlikely) 3-Overcharged with refrigerant (very unlikely since the refrigerant is factory sealed and has not been touched) Here is my question: Is the water flow problem a building plumbing problem or is there a regulator in the unit that controls the water flow/pressure? thanks again, The diagram shows a motorized valve between stat Y and heatpump Y. Some of my ClimateMaster diagrams show a pump here. Since you are in California, I just assumed that this is a cooling lockout. If this is a heating lockout, it could be a low airflow problem. Fan keeps running, doubt is an HP fault in heat. Other Unit is working. As Houston said, is there a valve in the piping? Something has slowed/stopped water flow. Hello again, So what is the best thing to do to get this thing fixed? Is there a valve to be replaced? Thanks Locate the valve or pump that supplies water to your heatpump and verify that it is getting power when demand is present. Post the make model of this device for futher assistance. Pics might also help us help you. If replacement of this device is required, you would be better served getting a licensed and insured company to replace it. The potential damage that you can cause can easily be from the tens, to hundreds of thousands of dollars, if you attempt to replace a valve or pump in a high rise building. Your building chief engineer would have the best recommendations for a company familiar with your building. They probably wouldn't replace it themselves do to this liability issue. If it is only a loose wire or minor electrical repair they may be of greater assistance. Hello Houston, The qualified tech worked on it today here is what happened: My diagnosis was right and there is water flow problem. The CXM controller is working properly. The Temperatures at inflow and outflow are OK. He vacuumed the inflow and outflow and some rusty water was drawn out of the coil. The Problem did not fix He did more vacuuming and more vacumming... Still the problem did not go away Here is his recommendation: He thinks the flow regulator is stuck and not working He says replacing the flow regulator is a major work. It will take him a couple hours to replace the regulator since it is silver welded. He said he also has to locate a climatemaster regulator which might cost around $300-$400 (parts only). He will also have to run acid through the coil and that will take couple more hours. The total will run around $1100 to $1500. Does this sound right? Please advise... Thanks No it doesn't sound right. A little heat and the flow reg is out. If the tech reads the manual, he can install a simple ball valve and manually regulate flow to climatemaster specs. Vac? If rusty water is being sucked out I think it would indicate no flow. I have never vaced a water coil. Flow reg screwed up I can agree with. Prices are very high. Melting silver brazing and removing a fitting, $400 parts only? $10 ball valve, set and forget. Acid clean is not a couple ours. 5 gallon bucket with biodegradable muratic acid solution. Submersible pump, pumps the solution through the coil. Takes maybe (at a strech) an hour. Smoke is blowing here... Hello Jarredsdad, Today the Tech for his work charged me $200. Just to let you know.. Thanks Hello again Jarredsdad, The heatpump climatemaster model # is 81630GNPKSCOK. Is there really a flow regulator welded on the inflow side as the Tech stated? Thanks Here is what the Chassis Serial # for my unit means: 816= Model Type Chassis 30=Unit Size G=Voltage (208-230/60/1) N=Options P-Control CXM K-6GPM Automatic Flow Regulator S-No Water Valve C-Copper Coax O-Standard K-Revision Level So according to these numbers there is a 6GPM Automatic Flow Regulator and there is no water valve or secondary pump in this unit. Now the question is Is the Automatic Flow Regulator really bad? and Is it really welded? Here is some very interesting progress I made on water flow issue. I wanted to get a second opinion so that I could be sure before spending the $1500 cleaning and replacing the water flow regulator. Here is what happened. I brought in an electrician to check the controller. The controller checked to work what it is supposed to do. Then we tuned off the inflow and outflow valves and opened the fittings. Then we pulled out the chassis. Then we got a bucket and released the inflow water valve into it. The high pressure water rushed out into the bucket. The only problem was the water is dirty black and full of sediments (sand and tiny metal particles). The water was so much polluted with sediments and metal that we had a hard time closing the valve (basically the sediments were ceasing the valve). The bottom 3rd the bucket is full of sediments. So the problem is the water coming into the system. It probably has already damaged the regulators, valves or what so ever inside. So the conclusion is: It is the HVAC water tower for the building that caused my unit to go bad.
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