Replacing Sewer Pipe Main Line
I haven't seen any threads specifically on replacing the main line so... I own an older home (1914) and the sewer line from the house to the city's main line is breaking down. The first back up happened three weeks ago. Had plumber come out, ran a camera down the pipe and noticed a sludge material for about 20 feet. A simple snake wouldn't be effective on this so they used something called a scour jet (or jetter). He ran the camera again and it looked clean except for some roots in one particular area. Furthermore, he noticed that a few feet away from the foundation there was some water surfacing - he concluded there was a break or separation where the house cast iron pipe was meeting the concrete pipe that goes to the street. With all the sludge removed I thought I could dismiss the roots and leak for the time being, BUT the tub started to back up again a few days ago. The plumber came back out and said that the majority of the problem (roots and pipe separation) is within 6 or 8 feet of the house and that the sewer line should be replaced. The rest of the line is aging but probably OK for now. Cost for them to replace the 6 or 8 feet is $1200 labor and materials - he said this section is very near the surface of the ground plus the house doesn't have a concrete foundation (it's post and pillar) so nothing to break through. Cost to replace the entire pipe to the street is $8600 (using pipe bursting method, otherwise a LOT of trenching and tree removal would be necessary). My question: Can I replace the 6 or 8 feet for considerably less than the $1200 to his company do it? And how difficult might this job be - what kind of surprises might I run into? If it requires the purchase of some tools and a bit of sweat I might do it myself. I've done pretty extensive remodeling before but never this. Thanks for you advice! First of all,CAN you do it according to local codes? This type of thing usually requires a licenced plumber.2nd, What is CLOSE to surface?2 ft....6ft? Drains are usually at least 1/8 of fall per foot. I think you are at the plumbers mercy (not that his charges are unreasonable).If you run into one problem,you'll wish he was doing the job. At the very least, he will be responsible for any future problems. I would do the whole line,if you can afford it. It isn't going to get any better. Good luck and post back. I'm going to check in with my city planning department to check but I believe the homeowner (me) can do this kind of work without a permit and without being licensed. I believe the pipe is only at a depth of about 2 feet or so while it is near the house. The plumber thinks it is pretty shallow because he can see the ground getting damp and if the pipe was deeper the excess water from the leak would drain down into the soil and not be noticeable above ground. I've taken a very close look at the video the tape the plumber made of the pipe. It looks like everything is fine for the first 6 feet which is all cast iron. It then transitions to concrete pipe and from 6 to 10 feet out things get very strangled with roots; after 10 feet things are much better with just a couple areas with some minor roots all the way out to 50+ feet which is probably pretty close to the city's main line. I've talked about this issue with the current tenant (who is buying the house in 12 months) who is also in construction and we're going to tackle this together. Our plan at this point is to locate the point where the cast iron pipe meets the concrete pipe (~6ft out) and then dig out 6 more feet until we get to pipe that is in better condition. I'm expecting a couple issues that I could use some advice on: 1) What kind of fitting are we going to be dealing with between the current cast iron and the concrete pipe? 2) How do remove this and what fitting will we replace it with? 3) What kind of replacement pipe will we need (PVC?)? 4) What kind of fitting will we need between the replacement pipe and the old concrete pipe? 5) Finally, how do we cut/break the concrete pipe in a clean way to get a good fit with the new fitting? I think we can do this as it's mostly mechanical - but I'd sure appreciate any advice on the above questions. Regards, Brett Well,if you are gonna do it. My preference would be replace it with PVC. You can get cast to PVC rubber couplings for that connection.To cut the cement pipe I would use a partner saw with a masonary blade for a smooth cut.The cast can be cut with a snapper. Both tools can be rented.Not sure of your concrete pipe outside diameter but you will probably be able to get a rubber flex fitting at a concrete supply outlet or maybe even a big box store.I wish you luck ( you are braver than I). Post back. Thanks for the advice on tools and materials Majak! We're scheduled to do the work Friday after next (July 23rd). I've left Saturday open as well. In the meantime I'll be checking with local plumbing stores and tool rental shops for the right materials and tools. Your replies have been invaluable. And, thank you, I'll take all the luck I can get! - Brett
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