I am brand new to this site and not sure exactly where to post my question. This would be the proper forum: http://www.doityourself.com/forum/gas-oil-home-heating-furnaces-26/ Furd you beat me to it. Now that we are in the correct forum, just what is the question? Be specific. I am trying to change out my thermostat. The one I bought at Home Depot is a Honeywell programmable model. The instructions don't allow for my situation. I have a total of 8 low-voltage wires attached to my old thermostat. The tech person, from Mombai I am thinking, says I need to look at the wiring on the FURNACE wiring control board. In removing the furnace cover I don't find a board per se. I do see the wiring harness, bundled together, with wires going to very specific connection locations in many areas. There are even more than 8 wires! So, am perplexed as to just what to do next. Find the thermostat cable going in. It is those eight wired you need to trace out. What model number Honeywell? What are the connection labels on the old thermostat (usually letters such as R). What are the connection labels you are missing on the new thermostat? Not an HVAC guy but answers to these questions should help them help you. Page 13 http://www.docs.hvacpartners.com/idc/groups/public/documents/techlit/58st-5pd.pdf You only need five conductors between the furnace and the thermostat. R, C, W, G and Y On the thermostat there may be both an R and RC (or Rc) This is the power from the furnace control transformer. If you have both R and RC then there should be a jumper wire connecting the two. Thermostat connections R= Red wire, power from furnace control transformer for heat function. RC= power from furnace control transformer for cooling function. C= power return to furnace control transformer for thermostat operation. Could be either blue, black or another color different from the other terminals. W= White wire, power from thermostat to heat function of furnace. G= Green wire, power from thermostat to manual blower operation of furnace. Y= Yellow wire, power from thermostat to furnace for cooling function. The thermostat may have additional terminals such as W2, Y2, O and B. These are for multi-stage heating and cooling and heat pump systems. We need to know what terminals the wires went to on the old thermostat...........
Related Posts:
Wiring a 2 wire thermostat
Wiring a 2 Wire ThermostatI am trying to wire my New Honeywell programmable thermostat. The existing Thermostat uses only 2 wires (for heating and cooling). The switches for Fan operation and Heat...
Thermostat wiring help illustrations included
Thermostat Wiring Help - Illustrations IncludedI recently purchased a Climatouch CT03TS32H programmable thermostat. It's a pretty nice unit that really does a lot more right now than I need, but I...
Wiring zone valves
wiring zone valvesHi: Have replaced old cast iron with pex. Kept cast iron radiators (hot water) on first floor. Second floor used fin and tube. Created 2 zones. Original thermostat is two wire, h...
Troubleshooting furnace not kicking on
Troubleshooting furnace not kicking on.I have an older, low-voltage (24VAC) furnace which, the last three years has religiously burned up older non-smart thermostats (mercury based I guess). I say...
Wiring the aprilaire auto digital humidifier control model 60
Wiring the Aprilaire Auto Digital Humidifier Control Model 60Looking for help with similar problem! I have installed an Aprilaire model 500 Humidifier with the Digital model 60 Auto Controller on...
Where is a good and cheap source for buying vertical blind slats? I don't know of any place that just sells slats. You'll need to contact the manufacturer to see if they might have extras around. Just slats? Heck, Home Depot and Lowes both sell them. Some can be cut, others you have to buy a specific length. Of course if you want something fancy they may have to be ordered. And you can't buy just one...they come in packs. Doubt you can match what you have, but easy enough to replace the entire window. I looked at Home Depot online and they have the whole thing not just slats. Did you check that? Go back on line to Home Depot and search for vertical blind vanes. They do have them. Bring a sample for size and to match the hole used for hanging. They're not coming up on Home Depot online. Only small parts. I had to buy a couple of plain roller shades the other day, and looking thru the aisle, I didn't see any vanes, alone. But maybe it depends on the store. I know the larger stores sell more things. Hmmm..they come up for me using vertical blind slats or vanes. OP is in Victorville. Not sure if they have them there...but in much of SoCal they have a large chain of decorating stores that carry blinds, carpet, and paint. Can't think of the stupid name! I'd think that any store or company that does blinds would have or be able to get slats. I think I know what it is. I have my store on the Home Depot website, and since my store doesn't sell the vanes alone, it doesn't come up in a search, either. So, obviously some stores carry them and some don't. My Lowes doesn't carry them either, so I guess some do and some don't. You'll need to search different stores to find one that does. I bought a package of slats at HD. As I remember, they came in 2 colors (Alabaster? and Almond?) with 10 or 12 in each package (I had two sliders and the vanes got twisted by the wind and animals before they were closed too tightly). They worked well on the cheap draw assembly, but the problem was store the left-over vanes since they ended up being too too long and limber in a oversize plastic package. - It was still cheaper than getting new complete blinds. Dick I looked at Home Depot in Los Angeles area. They also don't have it. At which stores did you see that in CA? I bought my vanes at a HD in MN just off the shelf. In addition to the normal HD blinds for a slider, they also worked reasonably well (although a little short), so I just replaced an entire section between areas because the custom fabric faced vanes were longer, but that was not a big problem because on cats tried to slip through. - No cat hairs on the vanes. Dick Just wondering thxbest...did you ask anyone in the decor/carpet department? I've really never been in one that didn't have some basic replacement slats. I used to work at HD and call me strange...but I like to go in them in different areas to see the modifications they have made to the layout. I think if you stop in any Home Depot, if they don't carry them, they can just punch it in their computer, to find which other stores close to you, do. We have to put in a specific store to search, but they don't have to! We just went through the same thing - home depot was the solution http://www.homedepot.com/Decor-Blind...Blinds-Shades/ May want to try blinds for less as well. If you read my reply, not all Home Depot stores carry them. Your link won't work for everyone.
Related Posts:
Vertical blindsgraber vs hdouglas Lowes vs specialty store
Vertical Blinds-graber vs Hdouglas,lowes vs specialty storeHi I am new to this site , and I appreciate much the valuable info i find is usu more objective than most sites I've visited. I need advi...
Spring loaded roller kit
Spring Loaded Roller KitI am looking for a 1 diameter spring loaded roller in a 24 length. I just need the tube with no blind or screen on it. does anyone know where i can find this? thanks It wou...
Where does one buy 25 stockade fence materials
Where does one buy 2.5 stockade fence materials?I'm looking to get a few more years out of a spruce stockade fence in my yard. Basically, I need to replace a 2' section of fence adjacent to a gate...
Ryobi one
Ryobi One+( I am from Hong Kong, no experience but interested) what do you think of Ryobi One Plus system, it seems very convenient, just 18 volt cordless power tools, batteries, and chargers all...
Storm door gap at the bottom even with adjustable sweep
Storm Door gap at the bottom.. even with adjustable sweep.We bought an EMCO By Andersen 200 Series Traditional 36 x 80 Storm Door with adjustable glass/screen section at Home Depot last night and...
I have a condo-Apartment in a High-rise building built in 2003. My condo is equipped with 2 water source AC unit (ClimateMasters with CMX/DMx control) 1 upstairs and one down stairs. Here is the Problem: The compressor at the downstairs unit shuts down after a few seconds after start up. The fan keeps running. You can hear the compressor starting up then shutting off. The filter is brand new. Is there a quick fix without calling the tech. Thanks for the help. Remove the panel and inpect the LED for the trouble code and post it here. Be Careful 240 volts is present in this panel. You may have to use a screwdriver to jumper the 2 test terminals on the circuit board before a trouble code is displayed. This pic might help... Houston204, Thanks for the instructions. I did the test and here is what I got: Flash code 2 = 2 quick flashes, 10 sec. Pause. then the compressor kicked in for 10 seconds or so then the compressor switched off and the LED started fast flashing (locked). Then I turned the power off and did a regular restart. (no test mode this time) The LED light stayed on Then again the compressor kicked in for 10 seconds or so Then the compressor switched off The LED light started flashing slow. I hope this helps... Thanks again.. Your high pressure switch lockout is probably due to low water flow. Is the pump or valve that supplies water to your heatpump getting power? Post the model number of your unit. This is what the GS , GR, GC manual states for 2 flashes... High pressure switch: When the high pressure switch opens due to high refrigerant pressures, the compressor relay is de-energized immediately since the high pressure switch is in series with the compressor contactor coil. The high pressure fault recognition is immediate (does not delay for 30 continuous seconds before de-energizing the compressor).High pressure lockout code = 2Example: 2 quick flashes, 10 sec pause, 2 quick flashes, 10 sec. pause, etc. Hello again Houston204, The model # is 30XG0N0B1. Here is what I think is going on: I came up with HP Fault-Code 2 There are 4 possible causes (According to Functional Troubleshooting Table). 1-Reduced or no water flow (very likely) 2-Water Temperature out of range in cooling (very unlikely) 3-Overcharged with refrigerant (very unlikely since the refrigerant is factory sealed and has not been touched) Here is my question: Is the water flow problem a building plumbing problem or is there a regulator in the unit that controls the water flow/pressure? thanks again, The diagram shows a motorized valve between stat Y and heatpump Y. Some of my ClimateMaster diagrams show a pump here. Since you are in California, I just assumed that this is a cooling lockout. If this is a heating lockout, it could be a low airflow problem. Fan keeps running, doubt is an HP fault in heat. Other Unit is working. As Houston said, is there a valve in the piping? Something has slowed/stopped water flow. Hello again, So what is the best thing to do to get this thing fixed? Is there a valve to be replaced? Thanks Locate the valve or pump that supplies water to your heatpump and verify that it is getting power when demand is present. Post the make model of this device for futher assistance. Pics might also help us help you. If replacement of this device is required, you would be better served getting a licensed and insured company to replace it. The potential damage that you can cause can easily be from the tens, to hundreds of thousands of dollars, if you attempt to replace a valve or pump in a high rise building. Your building chief engineer would have the best recommendations for a company familiar with your building. They probably wouldn't replace it themselves do to this liability issue. If it is only a loose wire or minor electrical repair they may be of greater assistance. Hello Houston, The qualified tech worked on it today here is what happened: My diagnosis was right and there is water flow problem. The CXM controller is working properly. The Temperatures at inflow and outflow are OK. He vacuumed the inflow and outflow and some rusty water was drawn out of the coil. The Problem did not fix He did more vacuuming and more vacumming... Still the problem did not go away Here is his recommendation: He thinks the flow regulator is stuck and not working He says replacing the flow regulator is a major work. It will take him a couple hours to replace the regulator since it is silver welded. He said he also has to locate a climatemaster regulator which might cost around $300-$400 (parts only). He will also have to run acid through the coil and that will take couple more hours. The total will run around $1100 to $1500. Does this sound right? Please advise... Thanks No it doesn't sound right. A little heat and the flow reg is out. If the tech reads the manual, he can install a simple ball valve and manually regulate flow to climatemaster specs. Vac? If rusty water is being sucked out I think it would indicate no flow. I have never vaced a water coil. Flow reg screwed up I can agree with. Prices are very high. Melting silver brazing and removing a fitting, $400 parts only? $10 ball valve, set and forget. Acid clean is not a couple ours. 5 gallon bucket with biodegradable muratic acid solution. Submersible pump, pumps the solution through the coil. Takes maybe (at a strech) an hour. Smoke is blowing here... Hello Jarredsdad, Today the Tech for his work charged me $200. Just to let you know.. Thanks Hello again Jarredsdad, The heatpump climatemaster model # is 81630GNPKSCOK. Is there really a flow regulator welded on the inflow side as the Tech stated? Thanks Here is what the Chassis Serial # for my unit means: 816= Model Type Chassis 30=Unit Size G=Voltage (208-230/60/1) N=Options P-Control CXM K-6GPM Automatic Flow Regulator S-No Water Valve C-Copper Coax O-Standard K-Revision Level So according to these numbers there is a 6GPM Automatic Flow Regulator and there is no water valve or secondary pump in this unit. Now the question is Is the Automatic Flow Regulator really bad? and Is it really welded? Here is some very interesting progress I made on water flow issue. I wanted to get a second opinion so that I could be sure before spending the $1500 cleaning and replacing the water flow regulator. Here is what happened. I brought in an electrician to check the controller. The controller checked to work what it is supposed to do. Then we tuned off the inflow and outflow valves and opened the fittings. Then we pulled out the chassis. Then we got a bucket and released the inflow water valve into it. The high pressure water rushed out into the bucket. The only problem was the water is dirty black and full of sediments (sand and tiny metal particles). The water was so much polluted with sediments and metal that we had a hard time closing the valve (basically the sediments were ceasing the valve). The bottom 3rd the bucket is full of sediments. So the problem is the water coming into the system. It probably has already damaged the regulators, valves or what so ever inside. So the conclusion is: It is the HVAC water tower for the building that caused my unit to go bad.
Related Posts:
Well pump issue or electrical problem
Well pump issue or electrical problem?I have a Goulds submersible pump (model #76505412, 230v, 1/2hp, max amps: 6.0) that was installed in 1996 before I moved into my current home. Unaware of well...
Tappan heat pump help needed
Tappan Heat Pump Help NeededHi all. I am new here. I will try to give best info as I have it. I have a Tappan heat pump I installed 5 years ago. Its a 3 ton 15 Seer (410a) unit w/both 2 stage heat...
Well pump problem foot valve or blader tank
Well pump problem... foot valve or blader tank?I've been reading old posts here for the last couple of weeks, and I think you all ahve helped me solve my problem. Before I go spend a couple hundre...
Where to fit water hammer arrestor
where to fit water hammer arrestor?where abouts in or around your house do you fit a water hammer arrestor? One posting I read mentions to install in closest to the source of the problem. Where di...
Sizing a flat plate heat exchanger
Sizing a Flat Plate Heat ExchangerHello Everyone! I need to know if there's anything beyond the obvious when it comes to choosing a flat plate heat exchanger for a hydronic heating installation th...
#V-73 Burnham Oil Boiler - Need Manual ASAP! Please help!
I have looked everywhere, contacted Burnham, and looked at the US Boiler website. This boiler is about 40 years old and they don't have a manual at Burnham, and I couldn't find a manuals link on US Boiler. Does anyone have any idea where I can find this manual? Thanks in advance . . . Hi, You may have found all this stuff, but what do you need from the manual? Capacities. BURNHAM V There was a lawsuit of boilers cracking on the V7 abd V8 series. Not sure if yours applies. They were giving $600 towards section replacement or new boiler. Again this is only what I read. Here is just another page on the V7. You are probably best just use the manual from the V8 series. Image Detail for - http://mjmacdonald.com/v7sob.gif V8 series. http://www.usboiler.net/products/boi...ets/manual.pdf Mike NJ I need to replace the manual that I had from a customer - someone in my office accidentally put it in the trash! Ugh! Really? You mean if you type in V7 Boiler Manual into Google you won't find what you are looking for? (hint: try the alpinehomeair.com link ) Uhh...Im not seeing it Troop... I figured it would have been easier for you to post the direct link since you were there? Unless you are teaching use search for things on the internet 101??????? Just a little levity... Yep, when I put in V7 I get a manual - but it's not the right one. The manual that comes up is for V7 Series Oil Fired Boiler Knockdown Packaged Heating Units which isn't the right one. I specifically need the V-73 Oil Boiler manual and haven't been able to find it anywhere! I did try alpinehomeair.com and while they were very helpful, they found the same V7 series manual also. Mike I was just being a wiseaxx... as usual! and I didn't know that the 73 was that much different than the 7 ... all outta ideas here, sorry! As far as I know, the V73 is simply a three section model of the V7 series. The 74 is 4 section, etc., etc. RBeck would know for sure. Thanks - I will check into that. Who's RBeck. . . and where can I find him/her? rbeck is very familiar with Burnham products a regular poster on this forum. Hopefully he will see this thread respond or you could try sending him a private message. Thanks Grady - I did email him - and I told him Grady sent me - lol! Sorry guys I was in Aruba for 8 days and boilers was the last thing on my mind. There was no law suit, but they did pay up to $500 for replacement if within the first 10 years. After that the boiler gets a pro-rated discount for a V8 or MPO-IQ. Never anything on the V8. V7 and V8 are different models and different manuals. As someone stated all V7's are in the same V7 manual and all V8's in the same V8 manual not to be confused with V8H which they have now. I have electronic versions of these manual but need the date code on the boiler label or some idea what year it was installed.
Related Posts:
Thermospa parts help
thermospa parts helpHi, I was given a thermospa 2000d and it has damage from freezing. I was able to find the major leaks. Broken manifolds and elbow. I was able to find those parts online. But th...
Weil mclain he ii boiler
Weil McLain HE II boilerI have a Weil McLain HE II boiler, it's about 8 yrs old, installed by me, all has been working well with it, however at the beginning of this heating season I have noticed...
Should i get rid of my burnham revolution boiler
Should I Get Rid of My Burnham Revolution Boiler??Hi: My new 2400 sq.ft ranch was built in the latter part of '03. I had a Burnham Revolution RV5 installed with taco 007's and slant fin high outpu...
Tecumseh lev 120 carbgoverner
Tecumseh lev 120: carb/governerToro lawnmower (2003) started dying not under load - could keep going by pushing bulb slightly. Pulled carb and cleaned. Reinstalled carb. Starts, but only putt, put...
Where to find manual post hole auger
Where to find manual post hole augerHello. I'm about to put up a fence and I am looking for a manual post hole auger. Oddly, I can't find one anywhere. Every hardware store sells the inefficient c...
There are other dealers out there that would probably honor the 10 year parts warranty, do you have the labor warranty too? Hi I've posted here before just in another catagory. Love the site. I've got a Trane XV90 furnace, it was new in '04. I got a complete system: furnace, 14i cooling system, humidifier and air cleaner. The problem I'm having is I have water leaking out of what I was told is the heat exchanger. All lines coming out of the system are clear. There is rust all across the bottom of the exchanger, but still feels solid, not rusted through. I want to know the severity of this and if a do it yourselfer can do the repairs. I know it's under warranty but the dealer I got it from is total jerk. Thanks in advance for any input! Dan No, That's why I'm looking to do it myself. My neighbor does heating and air but he's pretty busy but would help if he could. Thanks, I will recheck the lines and I think I know the trap your talking about. I pulled a elbow and looked back into what i believe is the exchanger, there is alittle water in the tube that comes out but the water is below that and doesn't seem to be able to drain from there. You have a 90% efficient gas furnace, which means the furnace cools down the combustion gasses and condenses the water vapor produced by burning gas into water to increase efficiency. That also means that the furnace has a plumbing system to deal with the water that's produced, which can be 2-4 quarts per hour if the burners are operated continuously. If the drainage system of the furnace gets plugged up, you start getting water coming out of varying places in the furnace. Before long, the furnace will quit running because the furnace is plugged up. You need to check all the water lines coming from the furnace carefully to identify any that are plugged up, often with mold. In particular, there is usually a plastic trap in the furnace which commonly gets plugged up and needs to be cleaned. The problem is unlikely to be in the heat exchanger itself. The heat exchanger is just where the water accumulates when it can't drain out of the furnace. I take it from your comment that you have checked the drain lines out of the furnace carefully. If that's the case, I'd look for that plastic trap, which may well be what the plastic hose connects to. If you have a hose with a nozzle on it, that can be an effective way to clean the trap, but use any method that works including blowing through it to get rid of the mold and such. Probably a fairly easy job, I would guess. If you have a heat exchanger failure it can not be done under any type of warranty by a homeowner. It should also NEVER be replaced by DIY. You are dealing with the item that separates the fire and flue gases from the air that circulates through the home. I have seen 2 (only 2) of those trane 90% heat exchangers fail in a way in which you describe. The water and corrosion you see at the bottom of the heat exchanger face plate may be caused by a leak in the cold end header of the heat exchanger. What I see fail a lot more than heat exchanger that can produce a similar concern is the inducer receptacle cracks and leaks condensate. If you post the model number of your furnace I can give you this part number. THank you. I'm pretty good at working on things, but I know this could be something not to mess with. Your information was just what I looking for!! Model #TUY080R9VW1 (3423WU67G) Ser.#3423WU67G. Not sure if ones in brackets are necessary but put in anyway. You guys on this Forum are great thanks. you missed a character in the model number. According to your serial number your model # is TUY080R9V3W1. The receptacle: Part Item Number RCT00084 Description RECEPTACLE; TRANSITION INCLUDING FOUR MOUNTING SCREWS Hi You are correct I missed the (3) some how. Must be my high speed one finger typing. The information will be very helpful. Thanks Alot! Have I missed something? Have you and HVAC Tech figured out the problem? I don't know if we figured out the problem, but it gives me a possibility that others haven't come up with. I just have get it checked out. HVAC Tech suggested that in no way should a DIYer do this work. Thanks all Hi everyone, I apologize for not giving an update after recieving all the help, but I've been kinda busy. The problem with my furnace was the secondary heat exchanger and also the part that hvactechfw told me about. They were both cracked, the secondary had large spider web cracks. It was pretty bad, you see light through the cracks. it's fixed and all is well. It difinitely wasn't a job for a do it yourselfer. Thanks for all the help. Dan I have condensate leaking problem on Trane XV90, I replaced the Receptacle Transition (RCT00084) which indeed did have cracks. After reassembly problem still persists. I again removed inducer and poured water in rectangular opening and found leaking. Two hours later I have the tray removed which sits behind the front panel of burner tubes. I found that it also has cracks I leak tested the assembly out of furnace. I can not find a part number for this, the only number on part is 21D340235 P0 I need that part and a new fiberglass gasket for front panel. Where can I get parts, and part list
Related Posts:
Trane xl 1200 heat pump fan stays on
Trane XL 1200 heat pump fan stays onI have a Trane XL 1200 heat pump (outdoor unit: TWX042, indoor unit: TWV064). Recently, the fan does not cut off even when I set the thermostat system to off, a...
York diamond 80 furnace doesnt shutoff and doesnt heat
York Diamond 80 furnace doesn't shutoff and doesn't heatI have had this problem intermittently for 2 or 3 years. My furnace quits blowing heat, when set to heat and setting is higher than room tem...
Trane xv90 gas furnace inducer problems
Trane XV90 Gas Furnace Inducer ProblemsI had a new Trane XV90 Gas furnace installed in my home in the spring of 2003. Since the install I have had the inducer replaced 7 or 8 times, 4 times alone...
Sidearm heat exchanger not heating
Sidearm Heat Exchanger Not HeatingHello Everyone! Here's my situation. I've just installed an outdoor wood boiler and it's delivering 175єF water to a stainless steel, double-walled sidearm heat e...
York diamond 90 gas furnace blower runs no heat with burner cover in place
York Diamond 90 Gas Furnace - Blower runs - no heat with burner cover in placeI have a York Diamond 90 Gas furnace that was blowing continously with no heat. Following some advice from this forum,...
Thermostat on Water Heater not working Weil Mclain Gold Plus 40
Hi, I just moved into a house that has a Weil Mclain Gold Plus indirect water heater. I have the temperature set to the factory recommended setting (I'm guessing this should be ~120-130 degrees). Our water is much much hotter though out of the faucet. It is close to 160 degrees. Is it possible that that the thermostat is not working correctly. Any advice on where to start? Some of the possible problem areas are: the aquastat may not be calibrated correctly, there may be thermosiphoning between boiler and indirect,or the heat circulatory may be pumping through indirect on a thermostat call for heat.Try turning the aquastat down or even off to see if it makes a difference. just moved into a house So you don't know if this is a new problem, or has existed for a long time then? the heat circulatory may be pumping through indirect on a thermostat call for heat.Try turning the aquastat down or even off to see if it makes a difference. That would actually be a pretty good, simple test to do for starters. ALL THE WAY down on the aquastat. If the water stays that hot, then the problem is elsewhere... the installers might have goofed on something. After this, turn the aquastat (you called it a thermostat) on the indirect back up to 100° and let the system recover the temp in the tank. Measure the water temp again, is it proportionally lower than before when it was set at 120-130 ? Tell us a little more about how the system is piped: How many circulator pumps are on your system? Do you know if the system has electric zone valves? How many heating zones (thermostats) do you have? Does the water get to the indirect via a pump, or an electric valve? We can probably answer these for ourselves if you wish to take a bunch of in focus, well lighted, large enough for old dudes to see, NOT cell phone pics, and upload them to a FREE account at Image hosting, free photo sharing video sharing at Photobucket and come back here and drop a link to your PUBLIC album. Take enough pics that we can see the entire system from several angles, in addition to any closer shots of the piping to and from the indirect, and to and from the zones. Thank you guys for the quick replies! It's awesome to know that there's a place out there where peoples are willing to help out. Originally Posted by NJ Trooper So you don't know if this is a new problem, or has existed for a long time then? Correct, I would assume this was an existing problem. The water has been very hot since we moved in and the aquastat has always been set at a reasonable level. That would actually be a pretty good, simple test to do for starters. ALL THE WAY down on the aquastat. If the water stays that hot, then the problem is elsewhere... the installers might have goofed on something. I just did this, how long would I have to wait to test it? After this, turn the aquastat (you called it a thermostat) on the indirect back up to 100° and let the system recover the temp in the tank. Measure the water temp again, is it proportionally lower than before when it was set at 120-130 ? Tell us a little more about how the system is piped: How many circulator pumps are on your system? There are 3 circulators Do you know if the system has electric zone valves? The circulators are tied to a Taco box How many heating zones (thermostats) do you have? We have two heating zones. Does the water get to the indirect via a pump, or an electric valve? Not sure on this one, how can I tell? We can probably answer these for ourselves if you wish to take a bunch of in focus, well lighted, large enough for old dudes to see, NOT cell phone pics, and upload them to a FREE account at Image hosting, free photo sharing video sharing at Photobucket and come back here and drop a link to your PUBLIC album. Take enough pics that we can see the entire system from several angles, in addition to any closer shots of the piping to and from the indirect, and to and from the zones. Here is the link to my photos. Let me know if you need details about any area. Heating System pictures by rebelins6 - Photobucket DISREGARD the grayed out text below! Sorry... I posted before I saw the last picture! DON'T OPEN THAT VALVE! What I THOUGHT I saw was a 'STOP VALVE' between the water heater and the relief valve. In the last pic it becomes clear that this is a DRAIN VALVE... or more likely what is called a PURGE VALVE, used for letting the air out of the tank as it is filled. It is NOT a hazardous condition! Again, sorry about that! I believe that I see a MAJOR problem right off the bat! On the top of the water heater is a valve with a red handle... and on top of that, I believe that what I see there is a PRESSURE RELIEF VALVE. This is DANGEROUS! If that red valve is accidentally CLOSED, and there is a problem with that system where the pressure in the heater goes too high for any reason... KABOOM! It ain't pretty when this happens! Take a look at that relief valve above the red handle valve, tell us what the tag says. It may in fact not even be the correct valve for the application. Please check immediately that the red handle valve is OPEN! and when you are sure it's open, get a screwdriver and take the handle off. Have the valve removed at your earliest convenience. Can we get closer, clearer pics of the yellow circled items ? I just did this, how long would I have to wait to test it? After seeing the pics, I don't think there's a mess-up with the piping. There might be a problem with one of the circled yellow items in previous post, but let's have a close look at those before deciding. It's possible that one of those valves is either stuck open, or has been manually opened by accident. Turn the aquastat (thermostat) on the water heater back up again... to say 100° and leave it there for a day or two and note if the water temperature has gotten cooler. Not sure on this one, how can I tell? We can tell by seeing the pics, thanks! The black circulator on the left appears to be the one that is pumping to the water heater. When the water heater is calling for heat, the black pump should run. The green TACO box has lights on the side of it, right? Those lights will tell you which zone is calling for heat. All in all, your system looks pretty darn good! In this pic: Tell us the readings on the boiler gauge, pressure and temperature. Turn off the power to the boiler and slide the gray cover straight off the control box (you may have to loosen one screw on one side). Tell us what model that control is (label inside cover) and what the setting(s) on the control dial(s) is(are). Here are the zoomed in photos Boiler gauge reads 40 psi for pressure (theres also a red arrow pointed to 70 psi), and 170 degrees. Aquastat relay is a Honeywell L8148A. I'm not really seeing any dials on the inside though. Never mind, I found it. Looks like it is set just under 190. One of the first things to check is the flo-chek valves... that's those three in the first picture, one on each 'zone' return. I can never remember which knob turning direction is 'normal' for these, but I believe it's FULLY CLOCKWISE. If those valve are not in the proper position, you will get unintended flow through a zone when it's not wanted or needed. This will happen when ANOTHER zone calls for heat... (by the way, the indirect counts as a 'zone', so you have a three zone system, one zone is the water heater) So first check that they are all fully clockwise. I believe that the other valve I asked a pic of is a 'vacuum breaker', and you can forget about that... not the problem. I thought it might have been a 'mixing valve',.., but it's not. Everything looks fine with the 8148... you could set the temp at 180°F ...might save a quart or two of fuel. 180 is the more or less 'standard' temperature. more... Boiler gauge reads 40 psi for pressure (theres also a red arrow pointed to 70 psi), and 170 degrees. There may be two scales on the temperature gauge... one in FEET , one in PSI. I suspect you may be reading the FEET scale, please check again... 40 PSI is way too high... but if you are reading the FEET scale, that is equal to around 18 PSI which is fine. Next we'll look at the aquastat (thermometer) on the indirect tank... Do you own and know use a multimeter? Oh... one more thing... inside the green TACO box that the circs are wired to are some slide switches... can you take a close up of the inside of that box as well? Originally Posted by NJ Trooper I can never remember which knob turning direction is 'normal' for these, but I believe it's FULLY CLOCKWISE.. Yes, the normal position is fully CW - this allows the check valve to drop closed when the pump is off. CCW manually jacks the valve open. Sorry for the delay tonight. I checked the flo check valves. Two were a little loose so I tightened them up (though not the one for the indirect zone). You're right, I was reading the inside of the pressure dial. Its about 20 psi Here are pics of the inside of the Taco box and the aquastat. Everything I've see so far looks just fine... In the Taco box, which of the three sets of thermostat wires is coming from the water heater? Do the thermostat wires correspond correctly to the position of the zones? In other words, the 2 wires from the water heater thermostat are going to the same 'channel' in the Taco box as the black circulator pump? And the 2 heating zones correspond to the correct pump? ===================================== So, have you tried turning the thermostat on the indirect down yet? Looks like it's still at the 'factory' position. I'd like to know if it has any effect at all... this will help to diagnose the problem. Turn it so it's pointing straight 'down' just to where it goes from light green to yellow. Take a long shower and see what happens. You've probably already seen this? If not, keep a copy of it near the panel somewhere. http://www.taco-hvac.com/uploads/Fil...ry/102-168.pdf
Related Posts:
Weilmclain indirect water heater safety valve
Weil-McLain indirect water heater safety valveWe have a Weil-McLain indirect water heater which takes the hot water from our boiler at 180 degrees and circulates it around a tank with the domestic...
Water heater blankets
water heater blanketsDoes anyone have a feel for how much fast heat is reasonably lost in a water heater? Before we left town for 3 days, I turned down the water heater thermostat to vacation mode...
Whirlpool water heater pilot wont stay lit
whirlpool water heater- pilot won't stay litWe replaced the thermocouple first b/c it wouldn't light at all but the ignitor was working and gas was working. We were able to then get a flame, but i...
Water heater wont stay lit
Water heater won't stay litI have a State Select Model PR650XCVIT Natural gas water heater is approximately 2 - 3 years old. Yesterday I noticed that I didn't have any hot water. I cycled the powe...
Thinking of a rheem tankless water heater
Thinking of a Rheem Tankless water heaterWe currently have a 50 Gallon electric water heater and are tired of the huge electric bill. There is a gas access less than a foot away from the water hea...
We bought a used Superior Kegerator off of Craigslist last week. I have read that this is actually a Beverage-Air BM23 sold under Superior's label which is the only reason I gave the green light to the purchase , as Beverage-Air seems to have a good reputation. However it's not cooling properly. We can fix it ourselves (or at least my husband can, he's the mechanic, I'm the carpenter) if we can track down the problem. What I believe to be the evaporator fan is constantly coming on, like every 5-10 minutes and the unit is struggling to get down to 45 degrees F even when the temperature control is on 9 despite the fact that the former owner told us he would have ice in a keg at the number 3 setting. We have no reason to doubt him, however the unit probably set up for at least a year if this makes any difference. We plan to replace the temperature control (which seems to have the thermostat as part of it best I can tell.) I would just if possible like some other opinions before we start chasing down and replacing bits piecemeal. Although given the price of one of these units new, even if we put 3 or 4 hundred into it I'll consider we've gotten a good deal (otherwise it's in very good shape.)
Related Posts:
Trane xl 90 furnace with ignition problem
Trane XL 90 Furnace with ignition problemTrane XL 90 gas-fired condensing furnace Model TUC0808942A1 Ignition controller White Rogers Model 50E47-060 Digital Thermostat RiteTemp 4 days ago, the fu...
Tempstar furnace diagnosis
Tempstar furnace diagnosis?Here is my background info before I begin: #1 living area: south Alabama #2 ambient temperature: oppressive humidity heat during the summer but very mild during the wint...
Whats the best water softenerconditioner value out there
Whats the best water softener/conditioner value out there?I seem to get more confused the more I research getting a water softener/conditioner for my home. My question is who can you trust, and wh...
Rvonan generator repair
RV-Onan Generator RepairOur Onan 5500 gas generator will not stay started. It will start as long as the start button is pushed down, as soon as you release the button the motor shuts off immediate...
Watchdog message 99 sundance spa where to begin
WATCHDOG message, '99 Sundance spa, where to begin?Hi, I bought a house with an old hot tub ('99 Sundance). I had an incredible amount of useful help on the electrical forum previously when I had...
I bought a used Craftsman table saw from which the owner had removed the on-off power outlet switch. Sears parts says this part is no longer available. Does anyone know of an after-market or used parts source for these? My saw is model no. 113.298761; the original power outlet switch was mounted very conveniently--right up front, hanging from the front rip fence guide bar; the switch operates a receptacle that the 3-prong motor plug goes into. I would particularly like to locate one of these, or a substitute that could hang about this same place. Thanks, Gary I have used a J box and a standard light switch as a replacment for power tool switchs cheap and readly availible from woodcraft.com http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?familyid=5002 hope it helps... I have the same model... Love it. Another one: http://woodworker.com/cgi-bin/FULLPR...ARTNUM=907-134 This is really helpful. Thanks a lot. -Gary Originally Posted by mango man I have used a J box and a standard light switch as a replacment for power tool switchs cheap and readly availible Ditto here, on my older model Craftsman, 103,20000 circa 1950's
Related Posts:
Table saw motor needed
Table saw motor neededI have a Craftsmann table saw, model number 137.248880. The motor is shot and I need a replacement. The motor model number is RM871, 15 Amp, 5000 RPM. Thanks in advance for y...
Very hot dimmer switch
Very hot dimmer switchI just wired 6 6 recessed can lights (65 watts) with a three way dimmer switch and a three way toggle switch. Everything works perfect, however, when the dimmer is set high a...
Wiring help on pumptrol pressure switch
Wiring Help On Pumptrol Pressure SwitchJust bought a new pressure switch because one of the points (contacts?) looked a little worn and burned. Am trying to install this new one myself, because of...
Water source heat pump climatemasters problem
Water Source Heat Pump (Climatemasters) problem.I have a condo-Apartment in a High-rise building built in 2003. My condo is equipped with 2 water source AC unit (ClimateMasters with CMX/DMx contro...
Rudd ugph10ebrjb pressure switch questions
RUDD UGPH-10EBRJB Pressure switch questionsMy furnace doesn't fire up. It is a RUDD UGPH-10EBRJB If I tap on what I think is the pressure switch, it starts working. I pulled the 2 wires off of the...
The last couple of times I have done laundry, I have seen a small backup of sewer waste and water on my basement floor. Is there a chemical agent I can use to try to clear the blockage? I would like to try to fix this myself if possible. Thanks. You could try one of the enzyme based drain cleaners, like Liquid Plumber or Draino, but a better solution would be to use a 1/4 snake to clear the line. You will be going through the trap under the floor drain, so a snake much larger than 1/4 probably can't be pushed through. Is there a clean out near by? You could use a larger (and therefore longer) snake by going in there. I believe there is a cleanout very close by. It is in the basement bathroom at the bottom of a wall. It is approximately 3 in diameter. If indeed this is the cleanout, what size snake should I use and how do I remove the cap? It looks pretty sealed on. Thanks again. a big wrench and a bigger hammer are used to remove the clean out cap. Since the blockage is coming out of the lowest drain in the house this may be a blockage in the main sewer line. If you run all the fixtures in the house for a period of time and then flush the toilet, does this floor drain back up? If so, no chemical is going to help, and you will need big equiptment at least a 11/16 cleaning cable with a blade on the end. You might want to call the roto rooter man at this point. If just the laundry line and the floor drain are affected then I would try putting the 1/4 cable down the waste outlet hole that the washer discharges into and/or the floor drain where the waste water is coming out of. If you call the roto rout guy be sure tell him if you put and chemicals down the drain. The blockage could keep the chemicals in the darin and if he is not aware they are there he could be burned.
Related Posts:
Sewage backup into basement shower
Sewage backup into basement showerWe are having the smelly misfortune of sewage backing up into the shower located on our lower level (basement). The toilet in that bathroom flushes nearly complet...
Uh oh ptrap for washing machine drain is below the floor
Uh oh. P-trap for washing machine drain is below the floor.I was doing some repair to some electrical and had to remove a large section of drywall near my washing machine drain. I discovered that...
Vinyl plank floor over basement concrete is cuppingseller says put down plastic
Vinyl plank floor over basement concrete is cupping-seller says put down plasticI won't mention the brand name, but we installed one of those new plank vinyl floors that do not require gluing. Sim...
Special insulation for radiant floor heating
Special Insulation for radiant floor heating?Just finished installing radiant floor heating under my living room, kitchen and dining room. I must say I love it but right now while the 1st floor is...
Replacing old sewer line tree roots
Replacing Old Sewer Line - tree rootsI'd like some feedback on ways to fix the problem of tree roots in old clay sewer drains. My house was built in 1949, the drain is clay pipes. About 6 or 8 mon...
We recently kind of inherited an RV. We are having a couple of issues. 1. The LP tank is full, we believe it is on -yet we cannot even get the cookstove lit! Not to mention the water heater, or fridge going. 2. The generator - it is not getting any gas to it. Is there a pump somewhere we could replace - or any suggestions what to check? We have had it running with ether/starter fluid - but it dies when that runs out. Pulled gas line off and no gas was coming out of it. And any other tidbits you may think would be useful to us - i am SURE they are!!! Please share. I bought The RV Book - but really it is not a lot of help with these issues. It's kind of a vague, but really technical at times. Too vague and too technical for me anyway. over my head. Thanks in advance for all your help! When you say you think the lp tank is on. Is the handle turned on? What type rv is it? And year? Some Motorhomes have a solenoid near the tank hook-up that operates via, the propane detector. When propane detector is off, it shuts propane off, and when on, turns it on. You'll see a solenoid valve in line just after the propane line comes out of the tank, with 2 wires going to it. If that's what you have, then it should be energized when propane detector is on. As far as the generator goes, what type model is it? I think you have air in the lp lines, what you need to do is open your gas valves and tank, let the gas flow for about 10 minutes then light try to light the stove, if it lights turn on all the burners and run on full for 5 to 10 minutes. Once this is done your hot water heater can be lit along with your refer. Don't forget propane tanks open to the left. You didn't mention what type of MH nor the type of gen set and where it's fed from many generators are fed from the main tank and if the tank is less than 1/4 full it will not feed the generator. If you still can't start change the fuel filter. Hope this helps. Proof read what your saying !! Maybe not intentional but if it is someone not familiar with proper precautions procedures, you could have instructed him unintentionally on blow himself up !!!! I think what is meant is , Open gas valve at tank, let it sit for 10 minutes, then try to light a burner at the stove. Although the 10 minute wait is not necessary, I just wanted to point out that no other gas valves in the system are to be opened. Everything else is in the off position, and TANK VALVE ONLY. I should also point out that if this system hasn't been getting regular usage, and has not had a proper propane leak test performed in the last little while, $50 is a small price to pay for a life piece of mind.
Related Posts:
Weilmclain indirect water heater safety valve
Weil-McLain indirect water heater safety valveWe have a Weil-McLain indirect water heater which takes the hot water from our boiler at 180 degrees and circulates it around a tank with the domestic...
Water softener brine tank 12 full of water
Water softener brine tank 1/2 full of water!I recently went to fill my water softener brine tank with salt, to discover that the brine tank was 1/2 full with water. I don't know exactly how much i...
Water softener dying or not testing water properly
Water softener dying? Or not testing water properly?Hello- I live in a community that has hard water, and we installed a water softener in our home 13 years ago. Recently, our glassware has starte...
Whirlpool water heater pilot wont stay lit
whirlpool water heater- pilot won't stay litWe replaced the thermocouple first b/c it wouldn't light at all but the ignitor was working and gas was working. We were able to then get a flame, but i...
Water heater wont stay lit
Water heater won't stay litI have a State Select Model PR650XCVIT Natural gas water heater is approximately 2 - 3 years old. Yesterday I noticed that I didn't have any hot water. I cycled the powe...
I haven't seen any threads specifically on replacing the main line so... I own an older home (1914) and the sewer line from the house to the city's main line is breaking down. The first back up happened three weeks ago. Had plumber come out, ran a camera down the pipe and noticed a sludge material for about 20 feet. A simple snake wouldn't be effective on this so they used something called a scour jet (or jetter). He ran the camera again and it looked clean except for some roots in one particular area. Furthermore, he noticed that a few feet away from the foundation there was some water surfacing - he concluded there was a break or separation where the house cast iron pipe was meeting the concrete pipe that goes to the street. With all the sludge removed I thought I could dismiss the roots and leak for the time being, BUT the tub started to back up again a few days ago. The plumber came back out and said that the majority of the problem (roots and pipe separation) is within 6 or 8 feet of the house and that the sewer line should be replaced. The rest of the line is aging but probably OK for now. Cost for them to replace the 6 or 8 feet is $1200 labor and materials - he said this section is very near the surface of the ground plus the house doesn't have a concrete foundation (it's post and pillar) so nothing to break through. Cost to replace the entire pipe to the street is $8600 (using pipe bursting method, otherwise a LOT of trenching and tree removal would be necessary). My question: Can I replace the 6 or 8 feet for considerably less than the $1200 to his company do it? And how difficult might this job be - what kind of surprises might I run into? If it requires the purchase of some tools and a bit of sweat I might do it myself. I've done pretty extensive remodeling before but never this. Thanks for you advice! First of all,CAN you do it according to local codes? This type of thing usually requires a licenced plumber.2nd, What is CLOSE to surface?2 ft....6ft? Drains are usually at least 1/8 of fall per foot. I think you are at the plumbers mercy (not that his charges are unreasonable).If you run into one problem,you'll wish he was doing the job. At the very least, he will be responsible for any future problems. I would do the whole line,if you can afford it. It isn't going to get any better. Good luck and post back. I'm going to check in with my city planning department to check but I believe the homeowner (me) can do this kind of work without a permit and without being licensed. I believe the pipe is only at a depth of about 2 feet or so while it is near the house. The plumber thinks it is pretty shallow because he can see the ground getting damp and if the pipe was deeper the excess water from the leak would drain down into the soil and not be noticeable above ground. I've taken a very close look at the video the tape the plumber made of the pipe. It looks like everything is fine for the first 6 feet which is all cast iron. It then transitions to concrete pipe and from 6 to 10 feet out things get very strangled with roots; after 10 feet things are much better with just a couple areas with some minor roots all the way out to 50+ feet which is probably pretty close to the city's main line. I've talked about this issue with the current tenant (who is buying the house in 12 months) who is also in construction and we're going to tackle this together. Our plan at this point is to locate the point where the cast iron pipe meets the concrete pipe (~6ft out) and then dig out 6 more feet until we get to pipe that is in better condition. I'm expecting a couple issues that I could use some advice on: 1) What kind of fitting are we going to be dealing with between the current cast iron and the concrete pipe? 2) How do remove this and what fitting will we replace it with? 3) What kind of replacement pipe will we need (PVC?)? 4) What kind of fitting will we need between the replacement pipe and the old concrete pipe? 5) Finally, how do we cut/break the concrete pipe in a clean way to get a good fit with the new fitting? I think we can do this as it's mostly mechanical - but I'd sure appreciate any advice on the above questions. Regards, Brett Well,if you are gonna do it. My preference would be replace it with PVC. You can get cast to PVC rubber couplings for that connection.To cut the cement pipe I would use a partner saw with a masonary blade for a smooth cut.The cast can be cut with a snapper. Both tools can be rented.Not sure of your concrete pipe outside diameter but you will probably be able to get a rubber flex fitting at a concrete supply outlet or maybe even a big box store.I wish you luck ( you are braver than I). Post back. Thanks for the advice on tools and materials Majak! We're scheduled to do the work Friday after next (July 23rd). I've left Saturday open as well. In the meantime I'll be checking with local plumbing stores and tool rental shops for the right materials and tools. Your replies have been invaluable. And, thank you, I'll take all the luck I can get! - Brett
Related Posts:
Replacing old sewer line tree roots
Replacing Old Sewer Line - tree rootsI'd like some feedback on ways to fix the problem of tree roots in old clay sewer drains. My house was built in 1949, the drain is clay pipes. About 6 or 8 mon...
Sewer back up pipe relining question
Sewer Back Up/ Pipe Relining QuestionWe recently bought a new home. It is a two level single family home. The home is on a hill, and we have large trees in the backyard. During the first week afte...
Replacing the main 200 amp circuit breaker not upgrading service
Replacing the main 200 amp circuit breaker (not upgrading service)Hello. This note is about our lakefront cottage (summer home). I added a 20A breaker in an empty slot in my circuit breaker. I shu...
Underground propane line from tank to run generator
underground propane line from tank to run generatorHello, I recently purchased a portable propane powered generator before Hurricane Sandy (I live in NE Maryland) that runs on an LP gas grill tank...
Sump pump outside discharge line qs
sump pump outside discharge line q'sHi all, I am installing a sump pump + backup sump pump in my basement and am planning on running 1+1/2 PVC from the pumps up, through the joist, to the outside....
Replacing a Multi-Flo Aerator-Need Advice on Difficulty
I believe my aerator in my Multi Flo septic system is faling. Anyone know how hard they are to replace - in the bottom of tank. Thank u Merry Christmas They are easy to replace. turn the power off, when you look down in the tank, you will see a small pipe coming out of the center. With gloves on, grab the pipe, lift slowly, because it can brake easy. Just under the water line there is a union, take it apart and lift the aerator out of the tank. The PVC pipe broke upon pulling the aerator assembly up. Does anyone have a suggestion? Also has anyone found a good place to order a replacement? TIA Hi and welcome. On a multi flo aerator, the pvc pipe that run down to it, can be bought at any hardware store. The parts that are in the aerator are 1/2 and the pipe running up is 3/4. Any and all the parts that can brake, can be found at the hardware store. Hi and thanks for the reply, my question has more to do with how do I now get the pump to the surface with a broken pvc. It is my understanding that the pvc is used to retrieve the pump. You can pull it up by the wire. With that cone out, you will be able to see where the wire goes down into the tank. Use good rubber gloves, and pull it up with the wire slowly. Turn the power off first.
Related Posts:
Need advice burying sump pump dischargedrain hosepipe
Need Advice burying sump pump discharge/drain hose/pipeWe've been living with a swampy mess in our backyard from our sump pump discharge for years and I've had enough! Our sump pump discharges out...
Replacing door sensors in an old adt system
Replacing door sensors in an old ADT systemWe have an old ADT Safewatch Plus Entrepreneur hardwired system. The door sensors are getting funky. An ADT tech showed up today, rapped the sensors with...
Replacing galvanized steel drain pipes
Replacing Galvanized Steel Drain PipesIt's come time to replace the galvanized drain pipes in my house. What I'm wondering is if this is a job that can be accomplished by an avid do it yourselfer...
Need advice replacing weatherstriping around sliding glass door
Need Advice Replacing Weatherstriping Around Sliding Glass DoorGreetings Gurus! I am nearing my wits end with this locate and neutralize air leaks mission I'm currently on due mostly to the slidin...
Replacing current copper pipes with pex tubing and shark bite fittings
Replacing current copper pipes with PEX tubing and shark bite fittings.I am remodeling my bathroom which will include replacing the current tub/shower diverter valve. The current copper pipes are...
I have an old 50's style kitchen table and chairs that I want to refinish. Its the kind with chrome around the top of the table and the chairs are almost solid chrome except for the back and seat. The top of the table is in almost perfect condition but the chrome on both the table and chairs is rusted really bad. HOW do I get the rust off? Also, how do I get that shiny look back on it? Do I paint it, sand it, both, or what? Bear: It may not look brand new when you're finished, but you can make that set look a lot better than it currently does. Your local hardware store and/or home center will stock Naval Jelly. It's excellent for removing rust - just follow the directions. Of course, you'll need to remove the seats and backs from the chairs, as well as mask off the top of the table. After using teh naval jelly, you'll need to do some sanding. Use Emery cloth - not regular sandpaper. Emery cloth is made espcially for sanding and smoothing metal. Use this to remove the last traces of rust. Don't just remove the ust, go over the entire chair completely with the emory cloth. Wipe the pieces completely clean - use a rag dampened with paint thinner to get all the debris off, then let them dry. Again at your hardware or home center, two aerosols. A metal primer that's sandable - look for this on the can - sandable. and a name brand (such as Rustoleum) chrome spray. Go over a chair with the primer -put it on in layers, avoiding runs, until the entire chair is coated. Set it aside to dry. Use 240 wet/dry paper lubricated with a little water to sand out any urns or rugh spots. Wipe clean after yo're finished, and let dry. Layer the Chrome Aerosol on, as you did teh primer. It will probably take several coats, but don't rush it - you'll get runs, which you don't need or want. The easiest way to spray a chair is turn ti upside down, and spray everything you can easily see first, and let it dry. Then turn it right side up and repeat the process. Chairs in my shop are normally sprayed from six different directions upside down, left, right, front, back, and rightside up. This ensures covering teh entire chair and not leaving any bare spots. You should be able to wind up with a credible, if not great job. George I have the exact same issue. Thanks George!! And I just noticed how old this post is... if you're out there George, have any new products surfaced that work better than those you mentioned? Barb Welcome to the forums perkbarb! George hasn't been active in awhile [probably too busy] but his good advice still stands
Related Posts:
Refinishing teak dining room table help
Refinishing teak dining room table - helpI have a teak dining room table that need a lot of work. When we bought it my wife put furniture polish on it. Ever since any moisture has left rings and m...
Refinishing a snow plow blade
Re-finishing a snow plow bladeHi everyone. Hope some have good answers for my project. I have a snow plow that has still a fairly decent finish of paint. But some areas, the paint is either starti...
Painting wood furniture with satinfinish latex paint but want a glossy finish
Painting wood furniture with satin-finish latex paint, but want a glossy finishi am brand-new to this forum and this is my very first thread - yay! i am repainting a wood headboard for my daughter...
Refinishing kitchen sink
Refinishing Kitchen SinkI have a single-basin, porcelain-clad steel sink, only a few years old. Where the faucet is normally placed, I now have a badly stained area. I have tried sink/tub cleaners...
Refinishing already stained kitchen cabinets
Refinishing already stained kitchen cabinets?i'm thinking about refinishing my kitchen cabinets, but i'm alittle unsure on go about it. they are about 20 years old and made of solid wood... althou...
On this white lawn tractor with the 2cyl 12.5hp briggs I think it has a fuel pump on the carburator and I dont think its pumping any fuel. I know alot of people put a electric fuel pump on there carburated trucks when the mechanical pump fails. I was wondering if I could do the same with this engine? The problem with putting a fuel pump on lawn mower-style engines is that the carburetor needle valve isn't designed to handle the higher pressure of an automotive style pump, even the older pumps for carbureted cars and trucks. You'll end up overloading the needle valve and flooding the engine. There are low-pressure electric fuel pumps for lawn mower style engines, but they are hard to find and can be pricey. You might start by looking for a generator fuel pump. I know this is a number of days old, but you could simpy install a remote vacuum actuated fuel pump. The fitting on the crankcase already exists and you merely mount the new pump to a convenient location and attach new hose to the pump from the crankcase fitting and new fuel lines, if needed. Briggs part number 808656, I believe, should work. Originally Posted by puey61 I know this is a number of days old, but you could simpy install a remote vacuum actuated fuel pump. The fitting on the crankcase already exists and you merely mount the new pump to a convenient location and attach new hose to the pump from the crankcase fitting and new fuel lines, if needed. Briggs part number 808656, I believe, should work. It is a few days old but I havent touched the engine since I posted this, Im waiting for nicer weather. This sounds like what I need, Im going to see if I can find one.
Related Posts:
May have run pressure washer with no pump oil confused
May have run Pressure Washer with no pump oil! ...confusedTroy-Bilt 3000psi I went to change the oil on my pressure washer and could not find a drain bolt anywhere other than on what I believe to...
Radonsump pump pit
Radon/Sump Pump PitHi- I have a sump pump pit and a house with a slight radon problem. I had a radon pump installed by pros, and they put a plastic cover over my sump pump pit and sealed it. My su...
Planning yard drainage with pump tothe street
Planning yard drainage with pump tothe streetMy back yard holds water that probably comes from serveral neighboring yards that share a long fenceline. I know some of my neighbors have done some gr...
Mitsubishi mr slim vs standard heat pump
Mitsubishi 'Mr Slim' vs standard heat pump?I'm delighted to have found this site! I can't believe all the knowledgeable and helpful people here. I have been running wood heat alone for 3 years now...
Problem with bell gossett series 100 pump
Problem with Bell Gossett series 100 PumpI have a small 4 bedroom two floors house with a Peerless gas boiler. It has two BG 100 pump one cast iron the other one is bronze body. the bronze seem to...
Hey there, I'm new to welding and new to these forums. I've been interested in getting into welding and metal cutting and read in a few places that beginning with gas torch welding is good for learning the skills required on MIG beyond. On an entry level budget, I am trying to decide on the best tool to get started. I was looking at the Harris/Lincoln Electric Port-a-torch and have a few questions. http://www.harriscal.com/2003/2003port-a-torch.asp 1 - Is this a good buy? This is basically an all-inclusive setup and I am also somewhat limited on space at home so that's why I'm looking at it. The projects I intend to begin on are some basic welds on my pocketbike, a small storage rack for my trailer hitch, a spare tire mount for my jet ski trailer, a small welding table, and a steel gas tank. 2 - This setup comes with a 10cu acetylene cylinder and a 20cu oxygen cylinder. How long do these capacities last? 3 - As supplied, the outfit is capable of cutting to 1 and welding to 1/16. Can cut to 4 and weld to 1/2 with larger tips and acetylene cylinders. Can someone please explain this a bit? I know that you need different tips and more pressure for increased welds, but is this capacity tank limited first my the tip size or both by the tip and tank? Meaning, can I increase the tip using the supplied tanks, or is that a hazard based on the tank capacity and output rate? 4 - If I am limited to 1/16 welds with the supplied equipment, does that mean I can only weld metal upto that thickness, or does it mean that it the total amount of penetration I will get? Could I weld 1/8-1/4 steel with a 1/16 penetration? 5 - I bought Welder's Handbook by Richard Finch to learn a bit and will also read the instructions for whatever I end up with. Anything else I should know? Thanks a lot. The small portable tanks are good to have for a quick repair but if you start a project or projects ( I usually have several going at the same time) the small tanks will empty quickly. Also my local supplier does not normally stock the small tanks so they must be filled at a regional center (60 mile drive). By leasing larger tanks I can exchange them locally. You might consider buying the kit you mentioned, keep the small tanks filled as spares and lease a larger set of tanks for everyday use.The tanks will not empty equally. I do maintenance and repair welding for farm and construction and rarely cut anything heaver than 1 in. Start with the kit and later you can add to it if necessary. Plan on alot of practice first on scrap, then on to simple projects however I would not advise anything to do with gas tanks at this stage. I enjoyed the book. Thank you very much for the reply. I have a comparable set made Victor that I once used for a/c service work. I think you might find that it is a bit small to be able to do any larger projects. Mine was almost the same price as an entry level full size set. Also, I agree that the size of the MC bottles make it quite costly to refill. You might want to try leasing medium sized cylinders for the first year as you will want to burn a lot of gas while you are learning. If you don't need the larger cylinders you can later have the fittings changed on the regulator to match a B cylinder which is standard for plumbers. Also keep in mind you can only use 1/7th of a acetylene tank in an hour because you could burn acetone and that could ruin your torch set. I just recently bought a smith torch set and am waiting to buy tanks because they cost so much. I've been thinking of getting a little toy set like that so I can braize copper sculpture. I've been using a propane / air whale torch and solder, but the solder doesn't hold well enough for me and the torch isn't hot enough to do braizing effextively. My plan is to get into oxy / propane just because the propane is inexpensive and easily refilled anywhere. Bought a tiny litle jewler's torch on ebay last week. I happened to be in the local gas shop yesterday getting consumables for my plasma cutter and I asked the guy about the toy tanks- He said the little tank (o2) was $56, while the next size was $130. Advantage comes when you go to refill them: they're about the same cost and you get 5 times the gas in the larger tank. So that's what I'd go for imho. You will use quite a bit learning and refilling a tank every few days would get a bit frustrating. You might check with your local community college to see if they have a welding classas then you get to become proficient with ALL the toys before you buy the one that best fits your needs, which sounds to me like you'd do best with a small wire feed MIG welder. Happily, a low end MIG setup can be had for about the price of the gas setup you're looking at, and is much easier to use / costs less to run. I've been welding for 3 years now and am just looking into getting a gas setup, for the brazing as I've said. I use my MIG for welding and a little Miller plasma for cutting.
Related Posts:
Lowes retaining wall olde castle blocks good for actual retaining wall
Lowes retaining wall olde castle blocks. Good for actual retaining wall?I recently acquired a pallet of Olde Castle retaining wall blocks for about $1/each. I didn't have a plan for them at the ti...
Prefab resin rocky stream fountain too good to be true
pre-fab resin rocky stream fountain: too good to be true?This may be heresy to you pond-pros, but this small unit would fit perfectly in a little gully rock garden on my postage stamp-sized proper...
Looking for good co2 and explosive gas detector
Looking for good CO2 and explosive gas detectorI have currently two Kidde KN-COEG-3 Nighthawks. During the last days both went off indepently at some point. But looking at online reviews I think i...
Peerless wbv03 related questions
Peerless WBV-03 Related QuestionsI am planning on replacing a 53-year-old, 97,000 BTU/Hr Crane boiler (does anyone have an idea what the AFUE of this might be?) with a new Peerless WBV-03 water bo...
Questions about installing pocket door
Questions about installing pocket doorHello, I'm Nels and I want to install a pocket door in our bathroom. The opening is 36. After looking on the internet I found one instruction that says: a poc...
My door is hard to open and to close. A groove has been made just to the right of center on the track. It is apparent the track will need replacing, can this be done,if so, just how and with what amount of difficulty? Thank you for any help you might be able to furnish. I would like NOT TO HAVE TO REPLACE ENTIRE DOOR! Unless you have a name brand door, like Andersen or something along that line that you can determine WHO made it, the chances you can get a replacement part are slim to none. And even IF you can get a replacement part, the sills are generally screwed to the side jambs from the outside of the frame.....this means you have to take the entire door and frame out to get to it..... The long and short of it is: you'll probably have to replace the door. http://www.hygrademetal.com/product.htm replace the rollers at the same time..... Rollers and the above track cover are available at most glass shops. Thanks Andy Stephen S, I like the idea Stephen had. It would be less expensive, I think. :-) How would I go about finding which of those illistrated would fit my door? How/what to measure? Thanks again. Pretty sure the product StephenS is telling you about is what some glass shops call a snap cap. (couldn't get past the first page of the URL he posted.) They are generally a 'one-size-fits-all' piece, you just cut it to length and use a rubber mallet or a block of wood to snap it onto your existing track. Certainly replace the rollers at the same time. Take one of the old ones with you to get the replacement rollers. (These are NOT one-size-fits-all!!) Lefty, Thanks for the reply and info. I will give the local Glass store a call to make sure they have this part. On two occasions I have taken the door off track to see if I could see just remove the rollers, each time I've had to put the door back (weather) without finding remove them. Tomorrow I'll have another look. I would like to tell you just how much help the DIY forums have been to me. I have yet to post a question that I haven't received a prompt reply. You guys are great. Thanks again. Older aluminum style: remove the sliding door. remove the the screw on each lower side....(the screw which secures the sides to the bottom). Tap off the bottom with a block of wood.. Take the bottom to a glass shop.. The retrofit track cover is a press on..... Stephen S, If I'm reading you correctly then my door isn't the older style because when I look at it there is no bottom to be unscrewed and knocked out/off. Instead, on each end/side of door there are two holes, one above the other. The bottom hole has a screw...the other is a open hole that might be where you would get to another screw. These holes are on both sides of door. I'll remove door tomorrow to look at the bottom (where rollers are located) to have a better 'picture'. Thanks guys, you have been a big help. I like doityourself's forums!! There are many different styles of rollers, and removal can vary. If you can't see remove the rollers, can you take the door to the glass shop and let them do it? Lefty, Good idea. We have a Sub. that should be just fine to haul the door. First, after it gets a little warmer, I will have a look at the rollers Thanks...and I will post when I find the answer. Advertisements within the forums is not allowed. Ads, advertisements, solicitations to buy or sell products, services or solicitations to hire a person, company to do work are not allowed within the forums. Advertisement Policy and Disclosure Statements: This forum topic nor any other forum topic on this web site was not intended to be used as a public bulletin board for the free posting of ads, solicitations and/or advertisements of any kind. Forums and their topics where intended to be used to exchange helpful problem solving methods and solutions to questions and not intended to be used as a public advertisement bulletin board. Unfit and inappropriate postings not relevent to the intent of this web site, postings containing ads, advertisements, solicitations or any such postings deemed as such by the hosts, administration, or moderators of the forums will be edited and or deleted without prior notice. Kindly direct your advertisements to our advertisement department using the receive advertising info link provided on the bottom of every web page. To solicit a contractor or company to perform services for you, please use the: Get Matched with PreScreened Local Contractors pictorial link provided on the top right hand side of every web page. Do not use email communications or PMs to send ads, advertisements or solicitations to our members or moderators. Our members email addresses and Personal {PM} Message services are not intended to be used for advertisement or solicitations of any type. Failure to comply with these policy rules, any part of the policy rules, will result in loss of membership privileges allowed on this web site. If anyone has any objections to this policy, I encourage you to contact the website administrator directly and state your objection. The Contact Us link is provide below for your convenience. Website Host Moderator twelvepole Thank you for your reply. I will certainly keep your company in mind when I have the info on the rollers...type size. It's still cold out! One thing, will the top rollers be the same as bottom and should all be replaced? Again, thank you for your reply to my post. It's appreciated. Patio glass doors usually only have rollers on the bottom. We've seen rollers on the top before and if this is the case with your door, simply switch the rollers from top to bottom vice versa. I was able to take the door down. and there were no rollers on top. I had thought there might be just as the screens have. Went to Fort Worth (Tx) and a fellow at the glass shop showed me remove my rollers and they also had the track cover. Lucky me. I will post later.. Thank you all for the help. :-)
Related Posts:
Replacing gear in craftsman garage door openerhelp
replacing gear in craftsman garage door opener...HELP!!after reading the posts on: http://forum.doityourself.com/showthread.php?t=194172 i ventured to replace the worn out gear on my craftsman gar...
Replace glass in larson storm door
Replace glass in Larson storm doorI have the door that has the retractable screen on the top sash .The bottom glass doesn't move. Both top and bottom glass has been broken and I need to take the s...
Repairreplace old mortise locks
Repair/replace old mortise locksI have a duplex with mortise locks on the front doors, Circa 1930. Neither one of them works as far as the thumb latch, and the keys are both long gone. A previous...
Questions about installing pocket door
Questions about installing pocket doorHello, I'm Nels and I want to install a pocket door in our bathroom. The opening is 36. After looking on the internet I found one instruction that says: a poc...
Overhead door legacy remote problem
Overhead Door Legacy remote problemHello, Everyone - I recently moved into a house that has what appears to be a new Overhead Door Legacy garage door opener. I have 2 remotes. 1 works perfectly, a...
My parents have a Goulds 200 amp panel, and I need a 15 amp breaker for it. I'v never heard of this brand before. Do I need a Goulds specific breaker for this panel or will any others fit? Thank you. I'll do some more checking, but I know I've seen lots of Goulds breakers and IIRC, they were mixed in with Challengers and other ITE-type breakers. You should be able to use Murray or Seimens breakers from Home Depot, but I'll try to verify that. Barring that, just take your Goulds breaker there and put it side by side to one and look at the bottoms. BUT, as a caveat, here is Seimens' official stand on this: A number of manufacturers produce circuit breakers that are physically interchangeable. These are sometimes referred to as interchangeable circuit breakers and users, at times, have interpreted the fact that these circuit breakers are physically interchangeable, to be an indication that it is acceptable to use these Listed circuit breakers interchangeably in a panelboard. This is incorrect. The physical interchangeability is not an indication that they are electrically interchangeable. This must be verified by test. Unless the circuit breaker is marked on the panelboard as being acceptable or it is Classified as being acceptable, the circuit breakers have not been tested in the panelboards and should not be used. These physically interchangeable circuit breakers exist for a number of reasons but primarily for the interchangeability that may exist if they are tested. There are many manufacturers of panelboards and other products that do not manufacture circuit breakers. The verification of the acceptability of a Listed circuit breaker is done by the panelboard manufacturer and it is to their advantage to have a panel design that can be tested for use with circuit breakers from more than one manufacturer. Likewise it may be to the circuit breaker manufacturer’s advantage to have an interchangeable circuit breaker to participate in this OEM market. Circuit breaker manufacturers produce circuit breakers for use in a variety of products and any panelboard manufacturer may use any circuit breaker in his panelboard as long as he tests the combination(s) to UL 67. In short; unless it is listed (UL) for use in the panel, it is not legal to use a breaker in any given panel. ==================================== Square D is one manufacturer that does not list its breakers for use in any other panel. Seimans (I believe) does test their breakers for use in other manufacturers panels BUT unless they are listed as accaptable, they are not to be used as such. Gould Inc. owned the ITE brand from 1976 untill they sold it to Siemens - Allis in 1984,over the years they were marked with a number of brand names. I-T-E Circuit Breaker Company I-T-E Imperial Corp. Gould / I-T-E Siemans-Allis I-T-E Electrical Products Siemens I-T-E Electrical Products Siemens They had 2 lines of residental / light commercial panels. EQ Loadcenters Pushmatic Pushmatics had a # of different names such as Bulldog Electric and Electricenter, Siemens discontinued the Pushmatic line only offering replacement pushmatic circuit breakers. BTW, Goulds makes water pumps, a totally differant company. Do not use a circuit breaker that fits your panel unless it is UL Classified to fit your panel, the breaker should have a list of specific panel catalog #s its been tested to fit. The inspection sticker says its been there sine 83, so most likley it's not a pushmatic. I hope.. Lowes didn't have any Gould's breakers? Do I have to order them online? Mac072 summed it up very well. You must look at the panel, and it should have a label saying something like use type QO breakers or use tpe CH etc. etc. Whatever type or types are listed, then you go find a breaker which is listed as that type. It may very well be that the Murray he mentioned will be a compatible type, but that's what you have to look for. actually any given panel manufacturer will not list compatible breakers from other manufacturers. You would need to consult the breaker manufacturers information to see if it is UL listed to be used in the panel you have. It is either Cutler-Hammer or Seimans that does go to the effort of having appropriate breakers tested and listed to fit other manuf. panels. They even make breakers that are listed for Square D panel. I don;t remember which it is for sure. One of the supply houses I deal with has a chart that lists all the breakers they make that are able to be used in another manuf. panel. You can purchase Gould breakers on ebay. These are used breakers that have been pulled after a panel changeout. I have purchased Zinsco breakers on ebay for my panel with no problems. it says use only Gould's ITE, QP, QPF, QPH, QPHF, and HCP breakers only. Would any of these avalibe at the local supply house?? what says that? the panel? if so, read one of my previous posts that deal with that. but anyway, it seems Seimans has purchased ITE and from what little I saw, offers breakers that are intended to be used in an ITE panel. here is a link to a site that sells breakers for you. I do not know if any of the big box stores carry the correct breakers. You might call and ask. Other than that?????? btw: not all Lowes, or other big box stores carry the same stock as another sstoer of the same name. No idea why but that is what it is. If you use a Siemens breaker you will be safe as they are the successor manufacturer, I have not seen any paperwork allowing a Murray in a ITE panel even though Siemens rebranded ITE breakers as Murray when they bought the line. BTW those breakers are not that expensive new, its certainly better new then unknown stuff from Ebay.
Related Posts:
Need help with electric motor wiring
Need help with electric motor wiringHi y'all, I am trying to wire a new Leeson 7.5 hp single phase motor for my air compressor. I have a new pressure switch rated a the specs I need and have the p...
Need help wiring for outdoor hot tub please
NEED HELP! Wiring for outdoor hot tub!! PLEASE!!So here is the situation. We are purchasing a 750 series Beachcomber hot tub and are trying to figure out what needs to be done with the electrical...
Programming a 6160rf keypad to enable wireless rf devices on a vista 10se panel
Programming a 6160RF Keypad to enable wireless RF devices on a Vista 10-SE PanelI recently upgraded my 6128 keypad to the 6160RF to get alpha programming and wireless RF so I can expand my system....
Need help sealing grease trap
need help sealing grease trapHello , I opened up my grease trap to clean it out. It appeared to clog and I still do not have water flow out of it. I am going to try to clean both ends of the trap...
Please help with my bryant furnace not working
Please help with my Bryant furnace not workingI have a Bryant furnace, horizontally mounted. A few weeks ago, the first time we tried to use the heat, it didn't work. The error code was code 31, w...
We've had our Kinetico unit since 1986, and I cannot seem to find a model number on it. The unit itself is back in a corner with salt tank right next to it so its hard to examine many surfaces. In any case, the unit has worked great until several months ago when our water started varying between soft and hard. It appears that one tank only is regenerating and the little red marker dial is not going around like it should. I assume there is some problem with the control valve. When I press down the screw to manually recharge, a bit of water leaks out around the screw if that is important. I gather from reading some posts in this forum which I just found, that I have had exceptional service from this unit, but it is time for some repairs. Not very interested in spending $1200 as others have been quoted for a rebuild, and I am quite handy at fixing stuff so would like some guidelines on proceed. There are a few Kinetico valves or partial valves available in the marketplace. Will basically any of them work for me? What kind of questions do I need to ask the sellers? Can anybody recommend a Kinetico dealer here in Southern California who charges a fair price for repairs? I don't recall seeing posts stating $1200 to rebuild a Kinetico softener but even if that is true, $1200 divided by 20 years of reliable service = $60 per year for 24/7 soft water. Not a bad deal IMO. Before you get yourself excited about what it MIGHT cost to rebuild your Kinetico, hit the Yellow Pages or the Kinetico web site and find your local Kinetico dealer. Give them the opportunity to quote exactly the repairs your softener needs and what their parts and labor warranty will be. Then you have a (price) point to start from to make comparisons. As far as buying an orphan Kinetico control valve out in the market (eBay and such) I wouldn't install it on my softener until it was checked for correct operation and the valve would need to be setup for your specific water use and conditions. You'd be paying the Kinetico dealer to do that if you want it done right. Apparently you thought the Kinetico was a good investment in 1986. It's just as good an investment today. Let us know what the Kinetico dealer says and then we might be able to help. Thank you very much for your advice. Isn't the only thing setable in the valve the water usage disk which I could take out of my old valve? BTW there seem to be a number of folks who have successfully repaired their own units on this forum. We have city water, and the unit was working fine several months ago which would imply the adjustable settings are still all fine. At this point it is not worth $100 to just have the system tweaked for absolute maximum performance. If I can't get it going again myself then I will call in the troops. If it comes to that point I will check around all the dealers I can find and get quotes for both a new and rebuilt valve and replacement of the resin. This will give me a good idea of which one to choose. Other than making sure a replacement valve works properly is there anything else to be concerned about if using parts from another valve to fix mine? There are two settings based on the your water conditions and usage, the metering disk and the level of water in the brine tank. If you decide not to rebuild you Kinetico maybe I'll drive over there and pick that worn out and obsolete junker from you, I always wanted a Kinetico Was not considering completely rebuilding the valve, only replacing any worn or broken parts. Have never taken one apart so would have to learn what I would be looking for. I'm sure I can handle replacing o rings, but doubt that is the source of the problem from my research so far. My reference was to others doing the exact same thing. If any broken or worn parts are needed I would also have the option of getting them from a dealer I gather from research. From my research so far it looks as if I can do the resin replacement for under $100 (I have the little tanks). Others on this forum have suggested a $400 fair ballpark figure for complete rebuild with new resin. If that is accurate, and if I can pick up a used or rebuilt valve for $200 or less then I still have the option of calling in the troops if I can't get everything back to normal. You're jumping way too far ahead when you start talking resin replacement and valve rebuild........from your description I'd bet money you have a worn meter turbine.......to determine the model you have, measure from the floor to the top of the control valve......call your local dealer......they will tell you which model you have......then request a new meter gearing stack......not sure about SoCal, but around here, $35 or so......if it was me, I would add a pawl set since you will be in there already.....it sounds to me like the unit is not metering all of the water as it flows into the house.....if the gear on the meter turbine is stripped, it will cause your resin bed to be depleted before the unit is told to regenerate. I agree with the other responses. Sometimes the problem is not related to the softener at all. We have done service on units as you have described and found running toilets, pin-hole leaks and other very slow water usage has caused the softener to regenerate too late. Please check all plumbing for these potential problems. $1200 is pretty expensive for a rebuild, even with a rebed. We rebuild valves for around $200 and that includes new gaskets and all worn parts except for main body parts, which rarely go bad. Just finding another valve may fit on the tanks but the internal gearing may be very different to determine gallons used in service, brining, backwashing as well as rate of flow. Another case may be the quality of your source water has changed slightly. This may be easily adjusted by the owner if data is understood and parts available. Andy Christensen, CWS Originally Posted by jdp38 You're jumping way too far ahead when you start talking resin replacement and valve rebuild........from your description I'd bet money you have a worn meter turbine.......to determine the model you have, measure from the floor to the top of the control valve......call your local dealer......they will tell you which model you have......then request a new meter gearing stack......not sure about SoCal, but around here, $35 or so......if it was me, I would add a pawl set since you will be in there already.....it sounds to me like the unit is not metering all of the water as it flows into the house.....if the gear on the meter turbine is stripped, it will cause your resin bed to be depleted before the unit is told to regenerate. If I take apart the valve should it be obvious what parts need to be replaced? From all the other posts on this forum regarding Kinetico units, I just assumed that after 20 years a resin replacement would be in order while I had it apart. Actually the unit originally had bladders inside the tanks which eventually ruptured. We had to have a factory person come out and remove the bladders and refill both tanks with resin so most of the resin might only be 15 or so years old. Can't remember exactly when that problem occured. Originally Posted by AndyC Just finding another valve may fit on the tanks but the internal gearing may be very different to determine gallons used in service, brining, backwashing as well as rate of flow. So you are saying a complete rebuilt Kinetico valve would not necessarily work on my unit using the same number disk I currently have? Wouldn't a water leak show up in our water bill with higher than normal usage? Isn't it likely after 20 years of continuous use with basically all original parts that something is now worn or broken rather than just some misadjustment? I will ask you the same question I just asked in the previous post: If I take apart the valve will it be obvious what part or parts need to be replaced, or does one have to be an expert in this area? Finally, have you ever considered building a web-site with all the info necessary for us DIY folks? It could have diagrams, photos, lists of steps for various processes. Perhaps a list of the most reputable Kinetico dealers around the country as reported by the readers. Yes, not all valves are identical and each is engineered to meet certain parameters and objectives. Water leakage may or may not show up in your water bill. in other words, when you use, say 9000 gallons in a given month, how could identify a give or take of a couple hundred? But that much may cause the softener to misread the service capacity. This would be true for all metered operated softeners. In fact some ROs are so wasteful, that softeners may need to compensate. And yes, after twenty years that can very well be the situation. I just wanted to suggest other...cheaper...methods of finding the answer first. In this business it is very easy for a technician to suggest a more expensive solution when he clearly sees a simplier, cheaper one that works. I was just considering that first. Will it be obvious to see parts that are worn or broken. Yes and no. Some subtle differences to the inexperienced eye can be invisible and others quite clear. Screens and o-rings/seals may appear to be correct but in fact may need to be changed. When we rebuild valves we just go through the whole thing and make it fresh...I mean, why take shortcuts when you have it apart. That's the difference with a qualified technician doing the work. It is a good valve and quite reliable. As far as building a web site with all those details...no, I never decided to go that route. I have helped individuals who were sincere in finding solutions. Andy Christensen, CWS Originally Posted by AndyC Yes, not all valves are identical and each is engineered to meet certain parameters and objectives. What if the valve is for the same model I have? BTW my units tanks have a diameter of about 7.5 inches and measures about 22 inches from floor to top of valve. I'm guessing this is a model 30 or it's predecessor. Would you rebuild a valve if I sent it to you? If so what would be the cost and how long would it take once it got there? Finding you was not particulary easy and your knowledge about these units would be invaluable to the internet community. A comprehensive web-site could potentially help many folks save some bucks when their Kinetico system is not working right. Lots of folks want answers now and are not willing to post back and forth on a forum to get answers - that does not mean they are not sincere in wanting to find solutions. I think you should at least think about the possibility of a web-site and all the potential good it could do. It seems to me that this water conditioning business has some of the same problems as the auto mechanic business. The average guy really never knows if the stuff a mechanic says needs replacing really does or not, and the info you have already provided in these posts is helping me to make a wiser decision on getting my unit back up and running. Don't sell yourself short! Thanks for all the time you have taken with me so far. Cliff aka lovetofixit Cliff Yes, it sounds like you have a K-30 model. This forum is not set up for nor allows private business transactions, so I can't help you in that respect. That would be a rule violation. One way to get banned from this forum is to advertise (either directly or subtly), conduct business or recruit customers; or behave badly toward other members. We have seen that happening the past so please understand if I don't offer to repair your unit or quote prices in the air of promoting my personal business. As for diagrams, exploded views of valves and other technical data, I have been able to share these with a couple of individuals through email attachments in the past. I will consider a web site, but not sure if I want to devote so much energy to the task. To locate a Kinetico dealer in your, or near-by, area: http://www.kinetico.com/Kinetico/EN/Residential/How+To+Buy/Find+a+Kinetico+Dealer/Find+a+Dealer.htm Hope this helped. Andy Christensen, CWS Sorry, I'm a newbie and not trying to break any forum rules. The only dealer I have heard from so far, gives a ballpark figure of $400-$500 to rebuild valve on site, but pushed for replacing whole system with a discounted new model because the resin, tanks, etc. could be bad. Turns out I have an obsolete model 45. Through more research I now have a trouble shooting plan, before pulling the unit apart and replacing the resin. It appears I should be able to pinpoint the problem fairly easily. I have a rebuilt replacement head lined up if I need it. Thanks one and all for your help. Will report back once the project is done. I decided to move ahead with resin replacement (about $85) and replacing the head, tubes, and screens. I got a nice rebuilt head and all new tubes and screens for a net of $70 (with exchange of my old head). Total about $30 more than the Kinetico folks wanted to come out and diagnose the problem. Turns out the main tank was out of resin because of cracked bottom screen. Was very thankful I had new resin on hand at the point of discovery. Just got everything all put back together and it appears everything is working normally. Will need to give the hot water heater time to recycle with soft water before claiming total victory, but so far am pleased with the result. Again I want to thank all those who helped along the way. The bottom line was that this was a job that could be tackled by the system owner without having to call in the expensive techs. Cliff I am instrested in your you replaced the resin in your Kinetico system. I have an old waterplant am told that I need a new one for $1000's of $. They have said the resin in depleted. Rookie Poster... Hope I'm doing this right... Thanking about buying a Kinetico Model 30 Water softener listed locally on ebay versus buying a lower quality big box softener... I have been in my house for 4 years and there's an old Culligan N8 installed but it was bypassed when I moved in and the previous owner said the resin tank was bad (or something like that)... After 4-5 years is this recoverable? How could I check? I called Culligan and all he wanted to do was sell me a new one talking about how expensive it would be to service the resin, and some other BS that seemed more techno babble then real facts... Others says Resin is cheap so maybe I should try firing up this old Culligan model? My preference is to buy this Kinetico locally if it's WORTH THE RISK.. Should I plan to put in new resin, anything else? Was bypassed 18 months ago. Seems like a few $100 gamble on this is better then a disposable softener from Home Depot... I'm thinking I follow the advice of others who posted to get water tested before installation What say you? FYI, Rockford, IL http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...MEBI:ITih=001 My trade is work as a Head Hunter so if I can return the favor somehow as far as Job search help... let me know. Got some good stuff I can share especially for Students going after that first job or those oldtimers shell shocked by having to take on a job search... Can't work miracles but I have some good tricks of the trade to offer... Originally Posted by srarfi Rookie Poster... Hope I'm doing this right... Starting a new thread to pose your question would be a good idea rather than hanging your post on an old thread. Just click the NEW POST button. I agree with Lurker, however, personally, I would spend a couple of grand on buying and rebuilding a Kinetico before I would spend a hundred on anything else I just bought a used Kinetico 60. I am getting all of my ducks in a row to install it. I do not have any installing instructions and am looking for some. The only question that I have is, does the backwash outlet 1/2 line coming off the head and the 1/2 overflow line on the brine tank need to be connected to a drain. If so can I put a tee inline and tie both to one actual drain? Originally Posted by AndyC Cliff Yes, it sounds like you have a K-30 model. This forum is not set up for nor allows private business transactions, so I can't help you in that respect. That would be a rule violation. One way to get banned from this forum is to advertise (either directly or subtly), conduct business or recruit customers; or behave badly toward other members. We have seen that happening the past so please understand if I don't offer to repair your unit or quote prices in the air of promoting my personal business. As for diagrams, exploded views of valves and other technical data, I have been able to share these with a couple of individuals through email attachments in the past. I will consider a web site, but not sure if I want to devote so much energy to the task. To locate a Kinetico dealer in your, or near-by, area: http://www.kinetico.com/Kinetico/EN/...d+a+Dealer.htm Hope this helped. Andy Christensen, CWS I have been seeing some spots on the shower doors and suspected the softner wasn't working. I put through some cycles and noticed it did not pull any brine from the tank. Any idea's? Your system is obviously not working properly. First thing I would check is to remove the tanks and heads to make sure your resin is still full. My problem turned out to be a cracked basket at the end of the tube which goes down into the tank which resulted in most of the resin being pumped down the drain. If the resin is still full, then you have a problem with your control head. Cliff
Related Posts:
Need help i am being sold on watermax by hague any feedback 2700 ouch
Need Help: I am being sold on Watermax by Hague. Any feedback? $2700! OUCH!My GE water softener finally died and I have been researching water softeners and was pointed to a Watermax by Hague. Fro...
Need help buying water softener
Need help buying water softenerHey guys, first of all, i'm new here. really glad to have found this place. I'm looking into getting a new water softener. Here's the situation, we recently bought a...
Need help i am being sold on watermax by hague any feedback 2700 ouch1
Need Help: I am being sold on Watermax by Hague. Any feedback? $2700! OUCH!Originally Posted by churlish And what makes you think the right volume of resin isn't in the tank? If that were true, th...
Kinetico price and worthiness
Kinetico Price and Worthiness???We are new to this forum and any forum for that matter....so here goes our questions. We have lived in our home for 8 1/2 years. Never treated or filtered the water...
Questions re new water softener peerless and wolverine co product info
Questions re: new water softener; Peerless and Wolverine Co. product info?Can anyone provide feedback about the quality of the metered demand water softener units provided by two West Michigan com...